Lake District, April 2024. Day 12, Culture and Exercise

I rounded the steep corner of the narrow path and there was the bothy, hidden in plain sight, a slate building hidden against slate scree. It was perched on a ledge high above the Buttermere Valley and tucked in under Haystacks, the favourite fell of that great Lakeland walker, Alfred Wainwright. It was a spot that I had long wanted to visit once I had discovered its existence.

We woke early to cloudless skies and the weather was to remain perfect for the whole day; all good things come to those who wait. Our day began with a trip to Wordsworth House in Cockermouth, the poet's childhood home. We were there to visit an exhibition of the wildlife photography of John and Rosamund MacFarlane, parents of the nature writer Robert. The exhibition was supported by the writing of son Robert and the painting and artwork of Robert's collaborator, Jackie Morris. The photography was superb and we very much enjoyed the curation and the inputs of Robert and Jackie. Before leaving we treated ourselves to a wander around the Georgian walled garden which we always enjoy. At one point I sat for a while on a bench enjoying the unaccustomed warmth of the sun.

Leaving Cockermout we drove through the lanes to Crummock Water and then Buttermere. As we climbed out of the village and away from the lake I remembered cycling up here with great effort with son Thomas on our off-road cycle ride of Wainwright's Coast to Coast to celebrate his 21st birthday. Parking in the car park of Honister Slate mine we ate our lunch before beginning the incredibly steep climb on the Haystacks/Great Gable path. Rather than heading towards either of these peaks, however, we followed the arrow-straight line of the old slate tramway from Dubs Quarry to Honister. The Haystacks path diverged from our route at the drum house at the top of the climb. Our route continued across the moor and then dropped to Dubs Quarry where we explored Dubs Bothy and chatted to the two incumbents who had spent their day collecting wood to keep them warm for the coming evening. Leaving them in peace we dropped down to and over Warnscale Beck. Leaving the main track, a narrow path led round the steep fellside above the beck. Gradually views down the calley opened up and suddenly Warnscale Bothy came in sight camouflaged against the steep slate scree behind it and from which it is built. Much smaller than the adjacent Dubs Hut it is compact and cosy and clean and tidy inside. There is just enough room for about 4 people to spend the night, though you would need to be good friends. The small window gave stunning views down to Buttermere and Crummock Water. While I was taking the classic view of the bothy before leaving, I thought back to occasions when I had 'nearly' been here. Once, many years ago when competing in the Saunders Mountain Marathon with my brother, towards the end of the tough first day, we had descended from Haystacks passing within yards of the bothy and crossed up to Fleetwith Pike to pick up our final control of the day. I remember standing high on Fleetwith Pike looking straight down at the overnight camp in Warnscale Bottom, my knees quaking at the prospect of the fearsomely steep descent, but my thirst already being quenched by the beer tent awaiting us. On another occasion Heather, Thomas and myself walked up to Fleetwith Pike from Honister. Standing on the specatcular summit Thomas and I conjectured on the whereabouts of the bothy. Many years of anticipation had finally come to fruition. An excellent day, nearly as excellent as the pint of Gold from Bowston Brewery which awaited in the site bar on our return.

Lake District, April 2024. Day 11, Squalls on The Kent

The dipper flew out of the bank of the river from under my feet and settled on a rock on the far side. Turning to face me it dipped up and down, it's brilliant white breast contrasting with the brown plumage and helping to camouflage it against the white of the rapids. It was one of several we saw along the river between Bowston and Staveley, the most exciting occasion when we watched one busily feeding chicks in a nest tucked underneath a farm bridge.

We had walked down to the river at Bowston from our Ashes Lane site, revelling in the rich greens of the cushions of moss tumbling over the stone walls in Rather Heath Plantation and coating the trees which sprouted growths of epiphytes such as ferns, mosses and lichens. On the way through Bowston Farm we had a very interesting chat with the farmer who has given up his sheep and replaced them with shorthorn cattle as they crop the grass less short making the land better for birds and other wildlife. As always the walk along the river was delightful; we always enjoy the sound of running water. The first bluebells were coming into flower along with wild garlic. Wood anemones or windflowers are already in full bloom as are wood sorrel and drifts of ladies smock.

The tea and stickies at Wilf's in Staveley was welcome before our last couple of miles across the fields back to the site.

Lake District, April 2024. Day 10. Farfield Mill

We arrived in the car park at Farfield Mill, near Sedburgh just after our firends Linda and Steve who had driven up from Blackpool. They had first introduced us to Farfield many years ago when we had been staying with them. Farfield Mill began life as a textile mill pwered by the rushing waters of the adjacent River Clough and now houses galleries, craft shops, artists' studios and a heritage centre. We headed first for the excellent cafe for a catchup and then a wander around the workshops and galleries before returning to the cafe for lunch. Inspirational, as always, I came away with loads of ideas for my own work buzzing around in my head.

Image - Farfield Mill taken Nov 2021.

Lake District, April 2024. Day 9. Wet walk Around a Garden.

One consolation of walking around a woodland or garden in the rain is that colours are more saturated and water drops on plants look attractive and add to the image. To be fair it wasn't pouring down when we visited Stagshaw National Trust Gardens near Ambleside, just drizzling! We were inspired to go when we realised that there was some parking, although limited, allowing for only 8 cars. We managed to get in, though.

Stagshaw is an informal woodland garden created in 1957. It is famous for its rhododendrons, camellias and azaleas with, adjacent to it Skelghyll woods in which can be found the tallest trees in England. We began with the steep climb up into Skelghyll, admiring the magnificent trees, before an easier descent and then another climb up through the gardens alongside the rushing waters of the beck. The rhododendrons and azaleas were coming into their prime, whilst the camelias were past their best. We found Erythronium in flower as well as a garden variety of yellow archangel and enjoyed the sound of running water..

Despite the gloomy weather we enjoyed our visit.

Lake District, April 2024. Day 8. Weather back to normal.

Another thoroughly wet and miserable day. Determined to make the most of it, however, we drove to Stavely to see the Kendal Camera Club exhibition and then went to Wilf's for lunch. The river was much higher than when we were here a couple of days ago so it is to be hoped that the dippers' nest is still safe. A bit of shopping at the Spar and then it was back to the site to batten down once more and read.

Photo: The River Kent from Wilf's.

Lake District, April 2024. Day 7, Our First Dry Day.

The sky was bruised-looking this morning, light from the east turning the blue-black clouds deepest indigo. It was to be agood day however, with clearing skies and some sun with temperatures up to 16C. Leighton Moss and bird watching was the objective for today and we were pulling into the full car park at 11.00 am. Once checked in and a chat with the wardens as to what was about, and we were out on the reserve. The first stop was the feeding station where there were surprisingly few birds about and sadly no marsh tits. Next it was on to the comfort of Lillian's Hide where there were large numbers of pristinely smart tufted ducks and noisy black-headed gulls. A pair of great crested grebes were displaying over at the the far side of the lagoon; good to see but too far away for photography.

On our way along the Causeway we stopped at the grit trays put out for the bearded tits and I couldn't believe it when a apir of birds popped out onto the trays abd then, better still when the make hopped back into the reeds and posed beautifully. It was rather late for them to be using the grit trays and perhaps the cold, wet weather meant the insects and few and far between. During the winter, when there are no insects, 'beardies' feed on reed seeds and fill their crops with grit to help process the seeds. During the summer, they feed on insects and have no need of the grit. I have lost count of the number of times I have been past these grit trays and seen no birds using them so it was a red letter day.

From Causeway hide there was another great crested grebe but it appeared to be on its own. A cormorant was stretching its wings to dry them and a pair of lesser black-backed gulls looked hunched and phlegmatic. It was a bit of a paddle to get to lower hide but worth it for the good views of my first sand martins of the year and a couple of gadwall. Summer visitors were starting to arrive, like the sand martins, and there were six warbler species now of which I managed 5: cetti's (here all the year round), chiffchaff, willow warbler, blackcap and reed warbler. I missed out on the sedge warblers. The other magigal sign of spring was the booming of the bitterns, about 5 booming males. The bittern is a large secretive member of the heron family, steaked with muted brown tones which provide wonderful camouflage against the reeds. They need extensive reed beds and Leighton Moss is noted for them. When the males are displaying to defend territory and to attract a mate they produce a deep booming sound, rather like blowing over a milk bottle top, which can be heard up to three miles away. Marsh harriers are plentiful here with several pairs breeding in the reed beds and we were lucky enough to get good views of two.

All too soon it was time to leave and prepare for our son Thomas to arrive and stay the night with us.

Photos of bearded tit and bittern from my archive. Ones from today to follow,

Lake District, April 2024. Day 6, Success in Kendal

A throughly wet day today from the start. Having googled Abbot Hall Gallery to check that it was open we headed off into Kendal. The gallery was, indeed, open but the cafe was not! We throughly enjoyed the exhibitions, but couldn't see much evidence of refurbishment that required three or four years of closure. The cafe closed we managed to get into the excellent Farrer's in Kendal for lunch before returning to the site and again battening down for a wet afternoon.