Wharfdale, November. Day 2

The sun sparkled on the early morning frost when we first woke but it quiccly clouded over to give a day of hill fog with patches of dramatic lighting and superb Autumn colours.  After climbing outside a full English we set off along the river to the delightfully named Yockenthwaite.  The riverside walk was fabulous with loads to photograph and we had excellent views of dipper and Nuthatch amongst other birds.  We were fascinated to watch a flock of sheep  being herded and penned in order to be tended to in some way.  When asked what type of sheep they were the pithy reply came back "awkward!" as one nimbly jumped over the wall.  They were, it turned out, Swaledales.  From here we climbed steeply up the fell side to reverse our route along the top edge of the woodland.  It was managed by the National Trust and much was ash with hawthorn.  In the heavily fruiting hawthorns large flocks of redwings and fieldfares were feasting on the berries.  The views from this elevation were super  and we sat and had mince pie and apple for lunch high above the valley of the Wharfe as it turned south to flow towards Kettlewell and beyond.  As we enjoyed the view we were delighted when a stoat popped out and briefly entertained us.  As always I had the wrong lens.  Our path gradually descended, crossing Crook Gill to the Hamlet of Cray.  Here our route  followed Cray Gill to the road leaving us half a mile to The George where an excellent pint of Black Dub in front of the wood stove was followed by a cup of tea and snooze.  I am looking forward now to another pint (or several!) and pie and chips.

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Wharfdale, November. Day 1.

Farfield Mill was, unusually,  open when we arrived.  Unusually,  because it is closed on Monday and Tuesday,  days that we have a habit of choosing to call in.  Packing and loading the care and preparing the caravan for winter had gone smoothly this morning. On arrival, our first port of call was the tea shop for warming leek and potato soup.

Farfield Mill was built in 1837 and operated as a textile mill until 1992. In 1993 Sedbergh and District Building Preservation Trust was set up to ensure its conservation. In 2001 it reopened as Farfield Arts and Heritage Centre. It is now home to a heritage centre and galleries.  Several artists and makers, especially weavers, have studios and galleries here.  We easily while away an afternoon here enjoying the work on display and chatting with artists and makers.  Farfield Mill

Eventually we continued onto Hawes and then made our way over the high moors and down into beautiful upper Wharfedale to our base for next two days: The George at Hubberholme.  We had stayed here for two new years running in 1986 and 1987 so look forward to renewing our acquaintance.  They have an admirable selection of real ales which I am about to sample and they even still have barnsley chops on the menu!!

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