Scotland, 2015. Day 7, North Glen Shiel Ridge

An even better start on the weather front today: early morning cloud was soon to clear to leave brilliant cerulean blue skies all day.  We were away even earlier today in view of the tougher challenge and we were walking from the Clunie Inn by 7.30 am.  Our route took us gently and first and then ever more steeply to the col of Bealach a Coinich in between our first two munros.  From the bealach came a phenomenally steep pull for a few hundred feet before we gained the ever narrowing ridge to our first summit of Ciste Dhubh.  The views were again stunning and we seemed perched on our tiny summit above the world.  Glen Affric and Alltbeithe Youth Hostel were far below us and beyond them the hills that were to be the route of our three day expedition in a few days time.  To the was the narrow ridge of today's walk culminating in the towering and majestic Five Sisters of Kintail.  All too soon it was time to head back down to the col and the steep climb up to our second summit: Sgurr an Fhuarail.  Although looking daunting from afar, this was not too bad in reality but I was still tired from the previous day and so found it hard work.  From here we followed the narrow ridge ridge with not infrequent short scrambles and snow patches to negotiate.  The constant ups and downs were strength sapping and when we stopped for a late lunch at 2.00 pm above the Bealach an Lapain after our fourth munro, I was shattered.  Here folowed a discussion as to our course of action.  We decided eventually once we had reached the bealach to push on but by the time I had climbed up to Sgurr nan Spainteach I was totally spent.  I was getting slower and slower and in danger of having an accident so I opted to retreat to the bealach and thence down very steep grassy slopes to the road.  This would allow Peter to continue at a faster pace and complete the route.  I found this a very tough and frustrating decision to make but it was the safest option.  Peter successfully completed the route at 8.00 pm and I reached the valley at 6.00 pm, both of us to be picked up by the support team.  Despite having to abandon, this was still a superb mountain day and one that will livin the memory for a long time to come:  fabulous visibility, stunning alpine views, brilliant blue skies and crisp white snow.  Despite cutting the walk short I still completed 4 munros, 14 miles and 6500 feet of ascent; as my sone said later "enough for anyone!".

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Scotland 2015. Day 6 South Glen Shiel Ridge Walk

The weather forecast was good for today so it was with some anticipation that I awoke early, breakfasted and packed ready for a 7.30 pick up by Peter and Linda.  Our plan was to walk the South Glen Shiel Ridge, a roller-coasting narrow ridge, knife edge at times, running for seven and half miles along the south side of Glen Shiel.  Although significantly better than the last few days, there was still a fair amount of cloud about but this was to clear and the light got better and better as the day went on.  Driving up the Glen Linda dropped us at the Cluanie Hotel and we were walking by 8.00 am.  Our first surprise was the group of three red deer hinds that were not fazed by us at all and allowed close photographs, even with the compact camera.  Our route took us first along the tarmacced track to Clunie Lodge before heading steeply up the hillside to the summit of our first munro: Druim Shionnach, with the views expanding all the time back down the glen and across to the North Shiel ridge which was to be tomorrow’s target.  Once on the summit it was a delight to sit for a while over a coffee and cereal bar and let our eyes wander over the endless vista of mountains to the south of us; hundreds, it seemed, none of which we had climbed.  Scotland is still a vast wilderness and long may it remain.  As we looked around,we both noted the grass, still bleached white by the retreating winter snows.

Following our short break we tackled the out and back to our second munro, Creag a’ Mhaim.  Heading west after this the ridge rose and fell constantly with little of no flat.  It was consistently narrow and often exhilaratingly knife edged.  There was still an awful lot of snow about with massive cornices built up on the head walls of the north facing corries.  Some of these were partially collapsed and it was then possible to see into the depths of the snow/ice which gleamed a beautiful milky turquoise colour.

At last it was time to head back down to the glen from our final summit of Creag nan Damh through a remote corrie, picking up a path by a magnificent waterfall, which fell free of the cliff for a couple of hundred feet.  When walking high on the ridge I love to hear the muted sound of rushing water far below and then lower down to revel in the sharper, more intimate sound of white water and gurgling rivers.  Once back at the road,Heather and Linda were there to meet us with a welcome cold beer.

A fantastic day: 17 miles, 6500 feet of ascent and 7 munros to add to the tally. 

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