The Dales Day 14. Starbotton and The Dales Way

 After a smashing, perfectly proportioned breakfast, we walked along the Wharfe to Kettlewell and back. Another section of the Dales Way, but the sole of my boot came off. Not good!!

The Lakes/Dales Day 13. Moving

 Spent the morning packing the car and getting the van ready for winter. A quick stop off at Plumgarths to pick up some sourdough starter from Lovingly Artisan and the makings of a picnic which was excellent and eaten on the way to Sedburgh and Dent. Dentdale is beautiful but just as we arrived in the village the heavens opened. Sustained by a cup of tea we continued up to Dent Head being suitably impressed by the railway viaducts; amazing Victorian technology and craftmanship. We continued on to Hawes and then over to Wharfedale, the weather and light improving all the time. The Fox and Hounds turned out to be 'a cosy inn of our sort' and we had a delightful evening in the bar which was much as we remembered it from 1986. Our room was superbly comfortable.

The Lakes Day 12. Sedburgh and Farfield Mill

 Although not so good as Thursday, today's weather was still reasonable and finished with beautiful warm autumn light, allowing us to get the awning down.

Farfield Mill was, as always, inspirational. Printer Stuart Wilkie had an exhibition. We have one of his prints (of High Sweden Bridge) and, as well as his work, I enjoyed looking at his sketch books and work in progress. Other artists had their sketch books on display and they are all works of art in their own right.

What a delightful town Sedburgh is with its book and craft shops. It is the sort of alternative place we love. We found a spinning/weaving shop and spent ages talking to the very friendly ladies about their work.

Once home and awning down it was time for tea: chicken, bacon and avocado salad. A very Nigel Slater experience.

The Lakes, Days 10 and 11.

 We spent Wednesday 9th visiting friends and exploring Kendal. An excellent day.

Thursday was another bus day, this time to Grasmere. On arrival we enjoyed coffee and cake in the Heaton Cooper Studio before launching off to Easedale Tarn. The weather was perfect and it was good to reminisce as we passed the Quaker Guest House where I had stayed whilst at school many years ago. We quickly reached the steep part of Sourmilk Ghyll with plenty of stops for photography. The climb went quickly and it wasn't long before we pulled up to the tarn. This is a popular spot for wild swimming but it looked cold today. Deciding to pass on the swimming as I had left my wet suit behind (!) we made do with lunch, finishing off last year's Christmas cake. Crossing the beck we descended into Far Easedale and made our way back by Easedale Ghyll along a superb greenlane. This was the route Thomas and I took on mountain bikes when we rode Wainwright's Coast to Coast, 16 years ago now! Green lanes like this fascinate me: who has walked them in the past; do they hold memories of those who have gone before; was it an old packhorse route?

In the perfect weather the autumn colours were beginning to come into their own now. Once back in Grasmere we again dallied in shops and cafe before catching the bus home, returning at 6.30. Once more it was comforting and cosy wandering down the lane at dusk with lights on the site beginning to shine out. The bar, of course, was too tempting to resist.