Mike's Natural Musings

Saturday, 27 September 2014

Scotland, September 2014, Rosemarkie Day 2

The eyes began to prickle from what seemed like hours staring out at the ruffled surface of the sea as incoming tide battled wave driven waves in the opposite direction. Hopes were raised; but no just a different wave form this time, the next a seal, the next a gull riding the waves and then.....a single dorsal fin broke the surface and then another followed by a tail fluke. Dolphin watching, like much wild life watching and photography, is a game of patience. Although the book says that they appear an hour after low tide, the dolphins have not read the book.

It had been pleasant last night to have a good night’s sleep without a gale buffeting the van and I awoke at dawn to a wonderful sunrise, so out with the camera at 6.30 to photograph it and then retire with a cup of tea to watch it unfold from bed. After the tea it was up for breakfast and then off along the beach for the low tide. Although it was a long wait for the dolphins eventually about four appeared and fished off the point, really close to the watching crowds. Unfortunately there were no dolphins leaping but it was wonderful to see them so close and I was happy with several of the photographs I got. There was plenty of other wildlife around to watch while waiting: several seals which kept pushing their heads out of the water to get a better view of us in between feeding dives, gulls on the water’s edge busily crabbing, parties of gannets flying up the Firth, presumably to favoured feeding grounds, cormorants and various small waders.

Once the activity was over for the day, it was time to return for lunch before heading north again to have a look at some of the east coast for a change. Much less dramatic than the west but still with mountains constantly in view and the interesting geography of the Firths penetrating deep inland: Moray, Cromarty and Dornoch. We got as far as the small fishing village of Brora but particularly liked Dornoch with its old castle and cathedral. The views up the Dornoch Firth in the evening light were beautiful and we enjoyed the novelty of the small car ferry from Nigg to Cromarty on the way back. It was good to see a pair of eider on the Cromarty shoreline the male once again in smart plumage. Tea was excellent fish and chips looking out over the sea before returning for a cup of tea and, later, a wee dram for a nightcap.

Another excellent day.

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Moray Firth Sunrise

Rosemarkie Beach

Bottle Nosed Dolphins

Sunset, Dornoch Firth

Nigg-Cromarty Ferry

Friday, 26 September 2014

Scotland, September 2014, Rosemarkie Day 1

Last night is one we wish to forget: gale force (37mph) winds from the south west and then the west tore at the awning and rocked the caravan. I was up several times during the night checking the awning; fortunately it remained both pegged in and attached to the van. I had attached the storm strap which no doubt helped. Some minor repairs will be needed to the stitching between material and awning rail cord but no more. It was still wild in the morning necessitating some careful team work to get the awning down in one piece; no mean feat. Once that was done and we were packed and away, the next worry was the wind while travelling but this turned out not to be a problem and the further east we got, the calmer and brighter it became. On arrival at Rosemarkie we were soon set up and established, awning out and dried and off for a walk down the beach to Chanonry Point. I had no expectation of seeing dolphins as the tide was wrong; they tend to come in to feed in the deep water channel off the point on a rising tide about an hour after low tide. It was a beautiful evening, though, and we enjoyed our walk, especially as there was an abundance of sea glass to be found. Eventually it was declared beer o’clock, however, and time to return for heated up venison casserole; such decadence!

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The lighthouse, Chanonry Point

Rosemarkie Beach

Rainbow over Fort George from Chanonry Pont

The lighthouse, Chanonry Point

Rainbow over the Moray Firth

Rainbow over the Moray Firt

Thursday, 25 September 2014

Scotland, September 2014, Achmelvich Day 11

A change in the weather today with low cloud and mist, wind and rain. This gave us an excuse for a lazy morning before heading to the flesh pots of Ullapool. The highlight for me here was the outdoor shop which doubled as a cafe and photography gallery with work by a couple of excellent landscape photographers on display. The journey home was broken by a visit to a local art gallery which was very interesting. Once back it was beer o’clock and then I set to to produce venison casserole with local venison bought at the butchers in Ullapool.

We have enjoyed a wonderful stay in the far north west of Scotland but sadly we need to move on so tomorrow it’s back across the country to the east at Rosemarkie on the Moray Firth. Hopefully there will be dolphin photography at Chanonry Point. We also want to explore the east coast and the weather forecast looks better.

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Ardvrek Castle and Loch Assynt

Ullapool Harbour

Ardmair Bay

Rough seas back at the site

The beach at Shore Camping and Caravan Site

Wednesday, 24 September 2014

Scotland, September 2014, Achmelvich Day 10

When the alarm went off this morning at 6.30 it was still dark. It was also blowing a hoolie and pouring with rain. Not an auspicious start for a long mountain day. I made a cup of tea while we considered what was to be done and, as it grew lighter, it seemed to be somewhat brighter out over the sea where the weather was coming from. It was then all systems go: breakfast, lunch made and bags backed and away. When we started walking it was still touch and go whether it was going to clear up or not so it was full waterproofs from the off. We had parked at the western end of Loch Druim Suardalain on the edge of the Glen Canisp estate. Although still enshrouded in cloud, the view of Canisp and Suilven from here was inspirational. The route began on tarmac until we had negotiated Gen Canisp Lodge and then was very good going on a landrover track, undulating all the way through the glen. At first the scenery is gentle, but gradually it becomes more rugged and desolate as the wilderness is penetrated. The brooding bulk of Suilven increasingly dominates the scene. After four miles we reached the cairn that indicated the start of the ascent, Suilven rearing up ahead of us. Long walk-ins are de rigueur in Scotland and, as in the Cairngorms, a couple of parties had cycled in to this point. We took to the smaller track and immediately set off uphill through boggy terrain. At 11.30 the boss decided she had had enough of bogs and we stopped for lunch after which, I continued alone leaving Heather to potter back down the track to the car, stopping to draw on the way. A fine effort by any standards and still resulting in a 10 mile walk into wild and remote mountain scenery. I pushed on up ever steepening ground, following a young couple who I fairly quickly passed and another geriatric couple of men, like myself, who I caught and stayed with. One had done all the Munros, tops and Corbetts and was on his second time around; impressive! Soon we reached the foot of the final climb, which reared up like a wall. The SMC guide recommends making your way steeply up a shallow gully; easy when said quickly. The gully in question was at least at a 45degree angle and required much use of hands. That said, it tracked from side to side enough to make the climb doable. The final pull up to the bealach brought one out on a ridge so narrow as to be initially disconcerting after the confines of the gulley, but what a superb situation!! Unfortunately cloud and drizzle swept in and it was necessary to don water proofs for the climb up to the west summit. As we climbed, however, the cloud was swept away by the brisk breeze and the sun even came out. Views were extensive and astounding; it felt like being perched on the pinnacle of the world! All around was water: the sea to the west and a myriad of rivers, lochs and lochans on the land. I was reluctant to drag myself away from this eyrie but I was only half way into the walk with another 7 miles, and the descent, to go. Bidding my companions farewell (they were going down the other side to return to Inverkirkaig), I set off down wondering how my dodgy knees were going to cope. I needn’t have worried, however, as the path remarkably fell into place and it was soon over. Once down in the valley it was into express mode to get back to the car to avoid ‘The Boss’ having too long a wait.

What a fabulous day!!!

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