Cleveland Way, Stage 6. Saltburn-by-the-Sea to Runswick Bay

I was excited to be walking this stage of the route as the first section to Staithes was a stretch of the Cleveland/North Yorkshire coast that I had never walked.  The journey went well.  We met up with Dorothy and Steve in the car park above Runswick Bay and then headed off to the start of the the day's walk at Saltburn, parking in the Cat Nab car park on the sea front.  Initially the weather was overcast but as the day went on the sky cleared and the sun came out with temperatures soaring.  An inspiring start took us up to Hunt Cliff and along a section of dramatic cliffs to the highest point on the east coast of England at Rock Cliff near Boulby.  Once we had climbed up and away from the beach we had fine views back to Saltburn and west along the coast towards Teeside.  The cliff edge path was unfenced alongside rolling farmland, golden with harvest crops.  Seabirds wheeling over the coastal cliffs now became a common site and the coastal views were wonderful.  We passed the site of a Roman signal station at Huntcliff with the railway line on one side of us.  This is now used solely as a mineral line serving the Boulby potash mine.  The remains of the Guibal Fan House was the first of much evidence of this coast's past industrial heritage.  The Fan was used to ventilate the mine, which was in use from 1872 to 1906.
Before too long we descended steeply to Cattersby Sands. Quiet and backed by interesting sand dunes, it is undiscovered by tourists.  At the southern end is Skinningrove Jetty built to service the local ironworks.  Having crossed the beck it was time to climb steeply once more up to Hummersea Cliff, again walking west - east.  Along this stretch we left Cleveland and re-entered the North Yorks Moors National Park,  Here again we came across evidence of the coat's industrial past with the remains of extensive alum workings.  These quarries operated for 200 years, the alum being essential in the textile industry as a fixative for dyes.  Alum was extracted from the quarried shales through a large scale and complicated process which took months to complete.  A part of the process involved the addition of human urine.  At the peak of production the industry required 200 tonnes of urine every year, equivalent to that produced by 1000 people.  Nice!!!  The demand was such that it was imported from London and Newcastle where buckets were left on street corners for collection - even nicer!!!  Rock Cliff is the highest cliff on the east coast of England at 203 metres (666 feet).  Eventually the present day Boulby Potash Mine came into view and we descended to the picturesque old fishing village of Staithes.  Boulby Mine has the distinction of being the deepest mining shaft in England at a depth of 1220 metres (4000 feet) and is a prime source of agricultural fertilizer. 
 With its higgleby-piggledy cottages and winding streets, Staithes has the air of a place lost in time.  Once one of the largest fishing ports on the North East Coast, this hamlet is now a wonderful place to explore.  As a ten year old (just a smattering of years ago) I remember the local women sitting outside their cottages wearing traditional dress and making lace.
Again it is a steep climb up from the harbour onto the cliffs above the village.  I was delighted to find that the path had been re-routed to give excellent views down over Staithes, a spot I must return to with different lighting.  The remainder of the day's walk took us along the cliffs with yet more dramatic coastal views to Runswick Bay and the car.  What an excellent day.