Mike's Natural Musings: Isle of Harris, Day 2. Loch Lomond to Harris

Sunday 4 June 2023

Isle of Harris, Day 2. Loch Lomond to Harris

Although it was only 8C when we woke up it soon warmed up and before long climbed into the low 20s. Our route took us along familiar roads to the end of Loch Lomond and on to Crianlarich where we turned west to Tyndrum and a stop at the Green Welly Shop for provisions. Turning north we passed through Bridge of Orchy and up onto Rannoch Moor before dropping down into Glen Coe. I couldn't believe how busy the glen was, more like a theme park on a bank holiday; horrendous. Traffic continued to be busy until we left Fort William behind us and headed over to Loch Cluannie and Glen Shiel. Pausing only to photograph Eilean Donan Castle, we were soon crossing the Skye Bridge. Our next port of call was a homage to British mountaineering at Sligachan Bridge where there are fantastic views of Sgurr Nan Gillean and Am Basteir at the end of the infamous Black Cuillin ridge. There is now a statue of Professor Norman Collie and John Mackenzie two of the earliest protagonists of Skye mountaineering. They were frequenters of the adjacent Sligachan Hotel so it would have been remiss not to partake of some refreshment here - sadly, with more driving to do, a pot of tea for two! Bypassing Portree it wasn't long before we joined the queue for the Harris ferry. While waiting I was pleased to see a party of male eider duck. The crossing was exciting: our first visit to the outer Isles, but relatively quick at 1hour40 mins. Leaving Tarbert on ever narrowing roads we navigated to Greosabhaig or Grosebay and our cottage, Sgeir a' Chais, a refurbished bothy built in the 1940s. We were soon unloaded and settled in the cosy main room with a wee dram. Well it would have been rude not to!