Lake District, April 2024. Day 12, Culture and Exercise

I rounded the steep corner of the narrow path and there was the bothy, hidden in plain sight, a slate building hidden against slate scree. It was perched on a ledge high above the Buttermere Valley and tucked in under Haystacks, the favourite fell of that great Lakeland walker, Alfred Wainwright. It was a spot that I had long wanted to visit once I had discovered its existence.

We woke early to cloudless skies and the weather was to remain perfect for the whole day; all good things come to those who wait. Our day began with a trip to Wordsworth House in Cockermouth, the poet's childhood home. We were there to visit an exhibition of the wildlife photography of John and Rosamund MacFarlane, parents of the nature writer Robert. The exhibition was supported by the writing of son Robert and the painting and artwork of Robert's collaborator, Jackie Morris. The photography was superb and we very much enjoyed the curation and the inputs of Robert and Jackie. Before leaving we treated ourselves to a wander around the Georgian walled garden which we always enjoy. At one point I sat for a while on a bench enjoying the unaccustomed warmth of the sun.

Leaving Cockermouth we drove through the lanes to Crummock Water and then Buttermere. As we climbed out of the village and away from the lake I remembered cycling up here with great effort with son Thomas on our off-road cycle ride of Wainwright's Coast to Coast to celebrate his 21st birthday. Parking in the car park of Honister Slate mine we ate our lunch before beginning the incredibly steep climb on the Haystacks/Great Gable path. Rather than heading towards either of these peaks, however, we followed the arrow-straight line of the old slate tramway from Dubs Quarry to Honister. The Haystacks path diverged from our route at the drum house at the top of the climb. Our route continued across the moor and then dropped to Dubs Quarry where we explored Dubs Bothy and chatted to the two incumbents who had spent their day collecting wood to keep them warm for the coming evening. Leaving them in peace we dropped down to and over Warnscale Beck. Leaving the main track up to Haystacks, a narrow path led round the steep fellside above the beck. Gradually views down the valley opened up and suddenly Warnscale Bothy came in sight camouflaged against the steep slate scree behind it and from which it is built. Much smaller than the adjacent Dubs Hut it is compact and cosy and clean and tidy inside. There is just enough room for about 4 people to spend the night, though you would need to be good friends. The small window gave stunning views down to Buttermere and Crummock Water. While I was taking the classic view of the bothy before leaving, I thought back to occasions when I had 'nearly' been here. Once, many years ago when competing in the Saunders Mountain Marathon with my brother, towards the end of the tough first day, we had descended from Haystacks passing within yards of the bothy and crossed up to Fleetwith Pike to pick up our final control of the day. I remember standing high on Fleetwith Pike looking straight down at the overnight camp in Warnscale Bottom, my knees quaking at the prospect of the fearsomely steep descent, but my thirst already being quenched by the beer tent awaiting us. On another occasion Heather, Thomas and myself walked up to Fleetwith Pike from Honister. Standing on the specatcular summit Thomas and I conjectured on the whereabouts of the bothy. Many years of anticipation had finally come to fruition. An excellent day, nearly as excellent as the pint of Gold from Bowston Brewery which awaited in the site bar on our return.